Si esce da Levigliani sulla strada marmifera asfaltata che dal parcheggio alto del paese (cartello esplicativo), tenendosi a destra, conduce verso l\u2019Antro del Corchia. Nelle vicinanze dell\u2019abitato di Levigliani furono scavati vari filoni di minerali di mercurio (cinabro, mercurio nativo) che soprattutto al partire dal XV secolo furono sfruttati per l\u2019industria fiorentina dei pigmenti rossi per i libri ecclesiastici. In epoca moderna queste miniere furono sfruttate con l\u2019apertura di varie gallerie per l\u2019estrazione di modeste quantit\u00e0 di mercurio nativo, ricavato dall\u2019arrostimento del cinabro, fino al 1967-1970.<\/p>\n
A partire dal 2008 la comunit\u00e0 di Levigliani ha recuperato le miniere e le relative infrastrutture per usi turistici nell\u2019ambito del sistema \u201cCorchia Underground\u201d ed oggi le Miniere dell\u2019Argento vivo sono visitabili e accessibili a pochi metri dalla strada Provinciale per Arni. Incontrata sulla destra una pista sterrata, la si imbocca, scendendo pi\u00f9 avanti ancora a destra (segno rosso per terra) e attraversando il canale. Qui, scendendo a destra ad un bivio (segno), si incontra il sentiero per Retignano, che si snoda secondo un piacevole in saliscendi. Si superano due brevi tratti attrezzati con cavetto e un\u2019area di sosta con tavolini, prima di giungere ad una stradina in cemento (da cui si pu\u00f2 raggiungere la Croce e il Poggio a Castello salendo e imboccando il sentiero sulla destra) che va percorsa in discesa, tra i recinti per animali, per girare a sinistra dopo pochi metri immettendosi sulla mulattiera che in breve conduce alla chiesa romanica di Retignano, dedicata a S. Pietro apostolo, che testimonia l\u2019 importanza del luogo.<\/p>\n
Il paese si trova sul versante meridionale del monte Alto, a 396 metri s.l.m.. Il Monte Alto si trova in una privilegiata posizione panoramica al centro delle Apuane versiliesi, un cucuzzolo tra verdissimi prati tra cui si aprono piccole cavit\u00e0 apere verso abissi carsici misteriosi. A Retignano abitano oggi circa 370 persone, e deriva il suo nome, come diversi altri borghi dell\u2019Alta Versilia, dal nome di un proprietario romano, Retinius. L\u2019origine del paese \u00e8 per\u00f2 ligure-apuana, e si sa che gli antichi abitanti di Retignano coltivavano terre in comune coi vicini paesi di Terrinca e Levigliani. \u00c8 uno dei paesi della Versilia ricordato pi\u00f9 anticamente, con la prima citazione che risale all\u2019855. Retignano \u00e8 citata anche nel 932, quando il re longobardo Rotario la don\u00f2 alla cattedrale di Lucca, e nel 1018 col nome di Rattiniano. Fu un comunello autonomo fino al 1100.<\/p>\n
Un tempo l\u2019economia di Retignano ruotava attorno alle cave di marmo, allora importanti, e oggi non pi\u00f9 attive. Sulle punte di Mont\u2019Alto esistono i resti di un\u2019antica cava di Rosso Rubino, un marmo pregiato presente solo in poche zone, e luoghi di estrazioni di bardiglio. Il paese gode di un clima mite grazie all\u2019apertura sul mare e, grazie alla sua posizione collinare, da cui \u00e8 possibile vedere la valle dello Stazzemese quasi al completo, oltre che i rilievi del monte Pania, Corchia,\u00a0 Matanna, Nona, Procinto, Lieto, Cavallo e tutte le montagne attigue. Per questo motivo era sede di fortini di avvistamento che avvertivano i valligiani dei pericoli di attacchi nemici provenienti dalla costa. Da molti anni (1953) in paese \u00e8 stata installata una stazione meteorologica che fornisce le statistiche per tutto il comune di Stazzema. Dopo l\u2019alluvione del 1996 a Retignano opera il Cerafri, il Centro per la Ricerca e l\u2019Alta Formazione per la prevenzione del rischio idrogeologico, i cui soci sono oggi il Comune di Stazzema e l\u2019Universit\u00e0 di 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Dalla chiesa parrocchiale di Terrinca attraverso le vie del paese si prosegue in direzione dell\u2019oratorio di S. Rocco, o con la strada asfaltata che parte dalla Piazza XII settembre, oppure salendo per via Grande e tenendosi poi a destra per Piazza 25 Aprile e via S. Rocco. Dall\u2019oratorio si scende per una strada sterrata (via dei Mulini), passando sotto i mulini e sopra un ponte ad arco in pietra, per trovare la mulattiera che conduce a Levigliani, che va seguita in saliscendi.<\/p>\n
Ad un tratto del percorso, in localit\u00e0 Serra d\u2019Oro, si incontra un\u2019altra famosa incisione rupestre con ben 19 croci incise. Nel 1573, il comunello di Levigliani si stacc\u00f2 da quello di Terrinca e questo sito posto su di una rupe con ben 19 croci incise ne segn\u00f2 il confine. La mulattiera termina alla marginetta sulla strada provinciale presso il bivio che conduce in paese (Via Levigliani). Si attraversa, quindi, Levigliani arrivando fino al parcheggio che si trova in cima al paese.<\/p>\n
Levigliani, con i suoi 350 abitanti, \u00e8 una delle frazioni pi\u00f9 popolate dell\u2019alta Versilia, situata a 582 metri di quota sul versante Sud del monte Corchia. Antico villaggio ligure apuano, come testimonia il ritrovamento di una necropoli, trae come quasi la totalit\u00e0 dei Paesi incontrati, fatta eccezione per Terrinca, da un romano, Levilius, che vi si stabil\u00ec dopo la deportazione del Liguri-Apuani. Citato per la prima volta nel 1153 per la presenza di una miniera di cinabro, e successivamente nello Statuto di Lucca come paese tributario di quella citt\u00e0, Levigliani nel 1375 si un\u00ec con il vicino paese di Terrinca, per poi separarsene a seguito delle dispute su alcuni territori.<\/p>\n
Quando il Granduca Ferdinando III decise di allivellare le terre comuni del paese, le famiglie assegnatarie trasferirono i loro diritti alla comunit\u00e0, creando le origini della Cooperativa dei Beni Comuni, proprietaria degli agri marmiferi del sovrastante Monte Corchia che oggi continuano ad essere fonte di lavoro per la Comunit\u00e0. L\u2019inizio delle attivit\u00e0 di escavazione del marmo si ebbe nel XVIII secolo, e in quello successivo si iniziarono a scoprire le varie gallerie dell\u2019importante sistema carsico denominato poi \u201cAntro del Corchia\u201d.<\/p>\n
L\u2019Antro del Corchia, con i suoi 70 Km di gallerie, \u00e8 il complesso con maggior sviluppo in Europa, rendendolo uno dei maggiori complessi sotterranei al mondo, fornito anche di un percorso attrezzato ed illuminato di circa 2 km che permette di addentrarsi tra le limpide acque dei laghi sotterranei, nel fascino della \u201cForesta Pietrificata\u201d e della \u201cGalleria delle Stalattiti\u201d. Nella foresteria del Parco Regionale delle Alpi Apuane di Levigliani ha sede il Museo della Pietra Piegata, che raccoglie quanto di meglio e di significativo la cultura del marmo delle Alpi Apuane ha lasciato, nel tempo, nel medesimo territorio e non 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Linea Gotica","description":"
Durante la Seconda Guerra Mondiale, le Alpi Apuane e l’Appennino settentrionale furono teatro di una sanguinosa guerra di posizione lungo Ia Linea Gotica o Linea Verde: una profonda fascia di fomflcazioni tedesche contro gli Alleati (eserciti anglo-americani) e le forze partigiane italiane, dal Mar Ligure all\u2019Adriat\u00ecco, attraverso il muro difensivo naturale delle stesse catene montuose. Questo fronte di guerra aveva una lunghezza di 320 km e sfruttava le condizioni fisiche dei luoghi. Il fronte fu modellato seguendo la morfologla delle alte vette, delle creste ripide e delle pareti rocciose insieme ad altri ostacoli naturali come fiumi e zone umide. Il Sistema difensivo naturale fu completato da fortificazioni militari realizzate dall’Organizzazione Tod! nei primi mesi del 1944, impiegando principalmente lavoratori italiani sotto il comando militare di ingegneri e genieri tedeschi.<\/p>\n
Nelle Alpi Apuane, lungo il settore pi\u00f9 occidentale della Linea Gotica. i bastioni rocciosi nascondevano trincee, posti di osservazione, rifugi e bunker. Completavano. qua e l\u00e0, il sistema fisso di difesa i campi minati e i reticolati di filo spinato.<\/p>\n
Dall’ottobre 1944 all’aprile 1945, queste fortificazioni militari e barriere naturali furono presidiate dalla 4a Divisione Alpina “Monterosa” (Repubblica Sociale Italiana) nella zona pi\u00f9 elevata delle Alpi Apuane. Questo fu l\u2018unico settore della Linea Gotica in cui il fronte di guerra si \u00e8 fermato per sei interminabili mesi. Qui, le forze tedesche e della RSI hanno realizzato l’unica azione bellica a loro favore di tutta la campagna italiana, anche grazie alle condizioni impervie di quest’area. Si tratta della “Battaglia della Garfagnana\u201c (26-28 dicembre 1944) conosciuta dai tedeschi come Unternehmen Wintergewitter (Operazione “Tempesta d\u2019inverno”) e soprannominata “Offensiva di Natale”.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
ll sentiero CAI n. 9 si inerpica sul lato meridionale del M. Corchia (1678 m s.l.m.) con 20 tornanti in serie lungo un ripido pendio erboso: \u00e8 Ia \u201cvia delle Volte” o “le Svolte”, oggi meglio conosciuta come “le Voltoline\u201d. Dopo 40 minuti si giunge al Passo dell’Alpino (1095 m s.l.m.), cos\u00ec nominato per la presenza di postazioni difensive della 4a divisione alpina \u201cMonterosa” (Repubblica Sociale Italiana). In particolare, il suo banaghone \u201cIntra” rimase attivo durante l\u2018inverno 1944-45, nel tratto pi\u00f9 elevato delle Alpi Apuane, dal M. Altissimo fino oltre il gruppo delle Panie. A| Passo dell\u2018Alpino s\u2019incontrano i pannelli illustrativi e Ie frecce direzionali verso sei postazioni fortificate: il rifugio n. 1, situato pi\u00f9 in basso, non \u00e8 ancora visitabile al suo interno. S’inizia dunque dalla postazione n. 2 (1120 m), in discreto stato di conservazione ed ubicata poco distante dal Passo. in risalita verso Mosceta. Usciti dalla postazione n. 2 si ritorna e si prosegue sul segnavia n. 9 per altri 25 metri. In corrispondenza dell’ultimo tornante de \u201cie Voltoline” si stacca un sentiero (freccia direzionale) che sale alla postazione n. 3 (1150 m s.l.m.). simile alla precedente. Procedendo ‘lungo il sentiero CAI n. 9, l\u2018ultimo tratto \u00e8 segnato da piccole lapidi di civili caduti nel primo dopoguerra sui campi minati dell’immediato intorno. Si raggiunge Ia marginetta\/maest\u00e0 del Monte (1139 m), costruita nel XVMI secolo dalla Comunit\u00e0 di Levigliani. Da qui a destra si scende alla postazione n. 4 (1120 m s.l.m.), non visitabile al suo interno; oppure, a sinistra, \u00e8 possibile risalire alla postazione n. 5 (1170 m), dopo un tratto di circa 150 metri. La postazione n. 5 \u00e8 un punto di osservazione privilegiato che domina la valle del Canale del Bosco, la zona di Cansoli e i paesi di Basati, Terrinca e Levigliani (all’epoca presidiati dalla 92a divisione afro-americana di fanteria \u201cBuffalo”). Una piccola croce in ferro ricorda i soldati del battaglione “Intra” che qui hanno vissuto dall\u2018ottobre 1944 all\u2018aprile 1945. Disces\u00ec di nuovo al segnavia CA1 n. 9, l’itinerario prosegue in leggera salita, lungo un tratto pressoch\u00e9 rettilineo della Linea Gotica, verso Mosceta. Poco prima del luogo di arrivo, in localit\u00e0 Col del Vento (1189 m s.l.m.) \u00e8 presente l’ultimo punto di osservazione degli Alpini sulla valle di Cardoso, Pruno e Volegno, corrispondente alla postazione n. 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